Chandratal and the high passes: a demanding ride from Manali
Chandratal — the 'moon lake' — sits at 4,250 m in the Lahaul valley and is reachable only three months a year. The road looks short on a map and is very slow in reality, which is exactly why it counts as one of the great Himalayan rides.
The route
Two days from Manali, sleeping in tents near the lake or in Kaza. The Atal Tunnel shortened the approach considerably, but the final section is still hard.
- Manali to Gramphu via the Atal Tunnel: excellent road, 30 minutes.
- Gramphu to Batal: about three hours, sections unpaved.
- Batal to Chandratal: 14 km that take one to two hours.
- Option to continue east over Kunzum La (4,590 m) into Spiti.
Water crossings and time of day
The streams past Batal are glacier-fed. They are low in the morning and rise through the afternoon, pushing rocks with them. Leave early and cross before noon.
Cross in first gear at a steady speed, standing, without stopping mid-stream. If the water is above knee height, don't cross.
Sleeping and altitude
Seasonal tented camps sit near the lake (camping on the shoreline is banned). Nights drop below freezing even in August. If this is your first night above 4,000 m, sleep at Batal and go up the next day.
Preparation checklist
A short route is not an easy route. This is the list we go through with every rider.
- Full tank in Manali or Keylong — there is no fuel in between.
- Warm layers, waterproof gloves and boots that dry.
- A full day of food and water; Batal has a single dhaba.
- No signal — leave your route plan with us before you go.
Frequently asked
- When is Chandratal open?
- Usually late June to late September, depending on snow. Outside that window the road from Batal is blocked.
- Is this route suitable for beginners?
- No. The final stretch is gravel, rock and water crossings. Beginners can ride as far as Gramphu or go with a guide.
- Can I sleep beside the lake?
- Yes, in licensed camps about two kilometres away. Camping on the shoreline is banned to protect the site.
- Do I need a permit?
- No special permit for Chandratal itself, but foreign nationals continuing into Spiti from the south need an inner-line permit.